Has the Pandemic Permanently Pooped on Gili's Party?

Lombok from Gili's shore

“A mecca for party lovers”

“Gili T attracts a crowd that in large part wants to party”

“Rave parties, zen-nurturing yoga sessions, idyllic beaches, and more; the Gili Islands are a three-in-one”

These are just a few of the amazing ways one can describe the 3-island chain. My experience in Gili was only a partial representation of the past plaudits merited by it.

Gili’s 3 islands consist of: Gili Trawangan (T), Gili Meno, and Gili Air. They are part of the Lombok region of Indonesia and people get to them by boat, either from Lombok or the Balinese mainland. Gili T is the largest and most popular of the 3. It is known for its party energy and lively atmosphere. Gili Meno and Air are smaller jewels in the mini necklace more famed for their romantic appeal as opposed to the buzz of Gili T.

As is with the rest of the world but, smaller destinations in particular the pandemic rocked Gili to its core. With tourism at a standstill a lot of locals journeyed to the island of Lombok in search for work in agriculture or governmental infrastructure. Upon docking at Gili T it was clear that the island and its people were in the recovery phase.

Turtle Point

Gili’s Current State:

Instantly, I understood how Gili operated without any motorized vehicles. People either cycle, walk, or hail a Cidomo (a horse drawn carriage, not recommended - little to no value for money) to get around. The perimeter is where tourists spend the most time with locals inhabiting the interiors. With a host of locals standing outside resorts attempting to sell you a variety of excursions from snorkeling to scuba diving to boat rides around/to Gili Meno and Gili Air, it was evident that there was not nearly enough demand to meet the supply.

Walking for about an hour or so opened my eyes to just how abandoned Gili was and still is. Abandonment of hotels, villas, and cafes. Many of them had been overrun by shrubs and creepers leaving just shades of their former lively and party crazed atmosphere. Deteriorating sea swings and poorly maintained boats dotted parts of the turquoise water. Covid had chewed Gili up and spat it back out – bits of the past glory days accompanied with an underwhelming, bitter taste.

Glimmers of Hope:

Amongst the neglected parts of the island are some hidden gems. A simple beach with a row of deck chairs, underneath palm trees directly facing the Island of Lombok was my perfect spot. Peaceful, happy, and elegant in its beauty. There is something surreal about listening to the crashing waves and staring at the numerous mountain peaks of the land beyond. It shows that landscape/island fascination is not limited to orange glowing sunsets but, the tranquility of the very island and its waters are what keep the island alive throughout the day.

Apart from beaches, a handful of great restaurants are other remnants of hope for Gili T. My favorite is Pink Coco which hosted views of the famed sunsets each evening. Great food and friendly service make it the ideal location for a quick drink and small bite. I do recommend tempeh goreng which, while I was not sure what it was at the time of ordering, it seems like a deep-fried soya-based cracker. The spicy dip it is served with rounded out the meal.

Other great restaurants boast a buffet of fresh seafood. The Pearl of Trawangan and Pondok Senti are both right on the beach and create a great atmosphere with live singers or DJs. Throughout all my eating experiences the one constant was the fantastic service across the island. This constant was prevalent from fancy restaurants, tiny stalls, cafes, and everything in between! Despite lacking waves of tourists, the people of Gili have not forgotten how to make everyone feel welcome and comfortable.

Sunset from Pink Coco

While the island does not have much to offer beyond eating or relaxing at the beach, its beauty is located below the surface and in its Eastern waters. There are several spots off Gili Meno and Air. During the dives I saw the famous Gili Turtles amongst the corals. The glaring highlights are in the stark contrast in colors. Blue, Green, Yellow, Orange fish and corals alike give the place a glow which transcends imagination, offering different senses every time you turn an eye. Snorkeling in the waters of Gili had me reminiscing of the last time I had snorkeled, Southern Mauritius, 2016. It reminded me of just how complex our planet really is and how on the surface while everything can seem choppy and uncomfortable there is, an underbelly providing safety and serenity to a unique ecosystem.

This is precisely what Gili, is dealing with right now. Things may look a bit shaky, a tad messy however deep within lies the hope and rumblings of a paradise waiting to be rediscovered. The night market is a perfect example of this. Online, Gili’s night market is polarizing in terms of cleanliness and health factors. For me however, it transcended all expectations. While there were not nearly enough people, the quality of produce and fish served were begging for others to dive right in. Open, live cooking offered a bright cinematic experience and a catch of the day Barramundi, prepared with herbs and lemon accompanied with a Bintang Pilsner made for a perfect evening following a day of snorkeling.

Gili T Night Market

The Party has Slowed, but Not Stopped:

Bottom line, Gili is changed, the atmosphere is not the same but there are signs of life in parts of the island. There is a hope that as the pandemic concludes more tourists will return, and their bubbly energy will restore the island to its heyday! Even without a ton of people, Gili maintains a certain charm and an aura which makes for the perfect getaway! There is enough to do and see as such, a trip to Gili would be warranted. A day or 2 will give anyone enough time to take a dive and explore the ocean while also enjoying the local foods and majestic sunsets Gili renders ashore.

Snorkeling by Gili Meno